Whitby hunting knife – http://www.whitbyandco.co.uk/whitby/hunting/hk1201-new-whitby-sheath-knife
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Hollow ground is less ideal, but the design is nice
I was wondering if you (or someone else) would be able to help out with some information about a pair of knives I have.
Larger knife is a buck 120, though I can find a number of different sheath designs for it as well as some very different changes including a brass/cocobolo wood handle instead of mine which is steel and some hard plastic or something – just wondering if it’s something that’s seen changes over the years
The smaller knife stumps me though, only marks on it is Inox solingen, germany. I figure that it’s made in solingen, though I can’t find that specific knife online. No names for it or any knives that look close to it.
Do you happen to know the knives made by Opinel?
My personal favourite is CRKT’s M16 Z. Practically unbreakable, made of very good materials, elegant looking and can be used for all sorts of purposes. It’s become my life companion and will probably survive me.
Looks like a hollow grind.. (just randomly commenting this for no real reason).
I had gotten really obsessed with identifying mystery stainless at one point. Here is what I found out.
The most common stainless steel knives like this (as in not kitchen cutlery or tool blades like on some wood planes) are:
AISI 400 series (and most likely either 420J2, 430, 440a, 440b or 440c). AUS-6 or Aus-8. And 3Cr13MoV.
Aside from that some companies have gone with custom variants they use on a lot of stuff. But, companies like spyderco and crucible steels almost flaunt the stainless they use (when it is that they are not using very common stuff) so it’s easy to tell in big brand name cases usually.
When your not sure who made a knife (like you know who sold it to you. But, your not sure where they got it from). Your usually left with the 8 named possibilities above.
Most the time you can rule one out strait away. Because, If it isn’t clearly a diving knife (really thick and heavy, usually with a plastic or rubberized plastic handle and a large slotted drive nut there so it can be disassembled for cleaning) then it’s not very likely that it is 420J2 (this is a go to stainless for marine applications. And, there is little to no point using it on anything else).
If it is marked Pakistan or Afghanistan it’s highly likely to be 430.
If it says Japan it will probably be AUS-6 or AUS-8.
If it says China it will probably be 3Cr13MoV.
If it says USA it will probably be 440c (but blades that are marked as just 440 are usually a or b).
Beyond that there are some things that can leave you fairly certain. 420J2, 440 (any type), and 3Cr13MoV are martensitic phase. 430 is ferritic. And I believe AUS-6 and AUS-8 are austenitic (I have not actually been able to get my hands on an AUS blade yet).
If you have a neodymium magnet try to stick it to the surface. No magnetization will probably mean AUS series. If it magnetizes, but does so weakly (as in you can easily pop it off the blade without sliding it) it’s martensitic. If it magnetizes strongly (to where you need to slide it to the spine in order to pop it off) it’s ferritic.
So, a strong magnet can tell you the family with mystery stainless.
Once you know it’s basic category you can look up the chemical resistant properties of members of that family therein. They usually have very specific resistance to things like bleaches/detergents, ammonia, fluoride, chloride, and vinegar. Which are all household chemicals or ones you can easily get from a super market or hardware store. Some have strong or weak resistances to nitric acid. And you can get carat graded nitric acid, online in kits (usually like $7-$10).
Make sure you use at least a dust mask, saftey googles (not glasses), and latex or nutile gloves and test in a well ventilated area. But, you can use tooth picks to dot small droplets of different chemicals on the spine of a knife (which ones based on what online charts say about the resistances within the family). You don’t need much. a pin head of fluids in a series of dots. And, about 30-45 seconds for to see how they will effect it if left on longer then that. Then soak them up with cotton swap and wipe the spine with a cloth.
You may see some did absolutely nothing. While others did light discoloration which easily rubs out. And still others did heavy discoloration that doesn’t come off as easily. with stainless steels, once you know the phase, this lets you get very specific. Because, their specific resistences is where stainless steels tend to truly distinguish themselves from one another.
It seems really involved. But, once you have some basic supplies and a test area set up (and you have done it a few times). It only takes a matter of 3-5 minutes to determine with a great degree of certainty what kind of stainless you have.
Whitby have been selling knives at least as long as I’ve been on the Planet (49 years). I think they used to make their own knives, but doubt if that’s the case now. I’ve had a few of their knives over the years, and they were all pretty decent. No high end steel like we have today, mainly 420 stainless, as far as I know.
Matt, what about doing a video on how to use a stone?
whitby knives are i suspect using the same supplier as elk ridge knives as that is virtually identical to the one i have see link http://www.bladesandbows.co.uk/elk-ridge-large-hunting-knife-2709-p.asp
I thought you can’t carry any knife in the UK because you are all babies in a crib being cared for by the government. We in the US are struggling to keep our rights, but you guys already lost them.
there is a good point in this video.. that even if the knife came not sharp enough from the factory, anyone who collects or uses knives or swords should know how to sharpen them.. because in time tools/weapons will dull eventually.. sharpness from the factory does not matter as long as you get the quality you paid for like steel quality etc..
For the average person with no specific use for a knife this looks like a pretty solid tool for a very good price, and quite attractive too. I imagine this knife has and will bring many years of utility to many people.
For serious use in a specific task though, like camping, bushcraft, survival/emergency preparedness, or hunting in the game processing/skinning/butchering sense, or hunting in the dispatching an animal sense – it’s a very compromised design. The thing I like the least is the swedge.
Would be interesting to see something from you on the Fairbairn-Sykes knife; one of the few remaining hand-held blades in the west with a combat history and line of descent, I guess.
“Carved wood” Pff yeah right, you stalked the streets of London and killed prostitutes with it!
Hey Matt, I don’t know what you’re using to record these reviews, but those in particular have a heavy static noise in the background. That makes it pretty much unwatchable for me, since it hurts. A lot. Please see if you can do anything about it.